Alaska - Week 6

July 31, 2022

Once in a while, we feel a little intimidated to write our weekly post because we have seen so much in a matter of days. This is one of those weeks. Southeastern Alaska has shown us all her beauty: glaciers, horned puffins, whales, icebergs, lakes, eagles, seals, and more glaciers.

Our route for this weekOur route for this week

Monday: Willow to Seward (3h30 / 200 Miles)

We couldn’t leave Willow without going on a dog sledding tour, even though it was the middle of summer. Through our Airbnb host Carrie, we learned about Alaskan Husky Adventures, a local Iditarod racing team and sledding tour company a few miles down the road. The husband and wife owners met during an Iditarod race, and their love story was even written in the New York Times! It took very little to convince Renda and David to join us, so the four of us geared up and hopped on the custom-made summer sleds with Alaskan Husky Adventures.

Matt, who competes in Iditarod every year, drove our sled, and we got to chat about what it was like to finish the longest race in the world and what were some qualities to look for in a race dog. Not surprisingly, a dog that knows how to pace themselves and use their energy efficiently has a higher chance to finish the race. But we were surprised to learn that having a short recovery time and being a non-picky eater were crucial factors for Matt. During the race, Matt’s dog team would run up to 6 hours at a time, rest for a few hours and have to be back on the trails again. The ones who need their 8-hour beauty sleep won’t recover fast enough to finish the race, and the picky eaters, well, won’t get enough calories.

If you were an Alaskan husky, would you make it to the Iditarod racing team? Kuan needs her beauty sleep, so she is out. 😅

Meet the team!Meet the team!

Victor comfortably seated in our little 2-person sled on wheels. These sleds are made in Germany and apparently this kennel is the only company to have them in Alaska.Victor comfortably seated in our little 2-person sled on wheels. These sleds are made in Germany and apparently this kennel is the only company to have them in Alaska.

And off we went!And off we went!

Taking a break during the tour so the dogs can cool off (and we can get kisses)Taking a break during the tour so the dogs can cool off (and we can get kisses)

Group photo with the lead dogs on Renda and David’s teamGroup photo with the lead dogs on Renda and David’s team

After the tour, the dogs cooled off in the splash pools.After the tour, the dogs cooled off in the splash pools.

After the fun and educational tour, we bid a very temporary goodbye to Renda and David to head south to Seward. In a week’s time, the four of us will reunite again in Homer.

Time to hit the road again! The weather became more and more promising for the coming days 🎉Time to hit the road again! The weather became more and more promising for the coming days 🎉

Tuesday: Seward

Seward is known as the gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park, home to more than 670,000 acres of glacier fjords. As soon as we arrived in town, we looked for a tour to take us up close to see the glaciers. After some last-minute inquiries, we bought tickets for the following day to see the Northwestern Glacier with Kenai Fjords Tours. Now that task was out of the way, we spent the rest of the day scrolling in the bayside town and enjoying what the nice day had to offer.

We woke up at our camp not far from Seward under a beautiful blue sky!We woke up at our camp not far from Seward under a beautiful blue sky!

Lovely view from campLovely view from camp

After arriving in Seward, we parked next to the port and took a stroll to get acquainted with the town.After arriving in Seward, we parked next to the port and took a stroll to get acquainted with the town.

We could see the old coal terminal that was closed a couple years ago.We could see the old coal terminal that was closed a couple years ago.

A paddle boarder enjoying the calm water of Resurrection BayA paddle boarder enjoying the calm water of Resurrection Bay

Old buildings in SewardOld buildings in Seward

The main block in downtown Seward with the historic buildingsThe main block in downtown Seward with the historic buildings

Love is love. 🥰Love is love. 🥰

Locals and tourists in downtown SewardLocals and tourists in downtown Seward

Local or tourist? 🙃Local or tourist? 🙃

We decided to spent the night in the municipal campground that was conveniently located near all the restaurants.We decided to spent the night in the municipal campground that was conveniently located near all the restaurants.

We headed to the Flamingo Lounge first for cocktails. The bar and restaurant opened last May and quickly became a town favorite.We headed to the Flamingo Lounge first for cocktails. The bar and restaurant opened last May and quickly became a town favorite.

We had two fantastic cocktails at the Flamingo Lounge. Not pictured were the hand-pulled-and-packed crab cakes. They were the best crab cakes we’ve ever had!We had two fantastic cocktails at the Flamingo Lounge. Not pictured were the hand-pulled-and-packed crab cakes. They were the best crab cakes we’ve ever had!

After the drinks, we headed to the Cookery around the corner for dinner and the highlight was this freshly caught halibut.After the drinks, we headed to the Cookery around the corner for dinner and the highlight was this freshly caught halibut.

Wednesday: Seward

To best prepare ourselves for the 7-hour cruise and Margo for her equally lengthy stay in the camper, we woke up early for a long walk by the bay. By 8:30am, we had parked the truck, secured Margo in the camper and boarded the 125-seat catamaran. What awaited us were some incredible wildlife encounters and jaw-dropping glacier views!

Leaving Seward on our tour boatLeaving Seward on our tour boat

Our first wildlife encounter of the day was a group of harbor seals enjoying the sun in the fjordOur first wildlife encounter of the day was a group of harbor seals enjoying the sun in the fjord

View from the boatView from the boat

A petit mignon (little cute) horned puffin. We learned that the bones of puffins are much denser than other seabirds to allow them to dive up to 100 feet under the water for food.A petit mignon (little cute) horned puffin. We learned that the bones of puffins are much denser than other seabirds to allow them to dive up to 100 feet under the water for food.

A humpback whale waving at us 👋A humpback whale waving at us 👋

A tail of the a fin whale, the second largest whale in the world after the blue whaleA tail of the a fin whale, the second largest whale in the world after the blue whale

A family of horned puffins on the rocky face of the islandA family of horned puffins on the rocky face of the island

A colony of common murresA colony of common murres

Some harbor seals chilling on a tiny piece of iceSome harbor seals chilling on a tiny piece of ice

We even saw a black bear in the distance!We even saw a black bear in the distance!

We were in glacier country.We were in glacier country.

Kuan took approximatively 600 pictures during the tour.😅Kuan took approximatively 600 pictures during the tour.😅

Finally, the Northwestern Glacier.Finally, the Northwestern Glacier.

We observed a couple of huge blocks of ice calving from the glacier. While it’s a natural phenomena, the frequency is accelerated by global warming.We observed a couple of huge blocks of ice calving from the glacier. While it’s a natural phenomena, the frequency is accelerated by global warming.

The Northwestern Glacier, named after Northwestern University in 1909, is a tidewater glacier meaning that the water from the glacier flows down into to the ocean. The interface between the sea and the snow was awe-inspiring, and the color and texture of the glacier so beautiful that we took many pictures with our zoom lens.

ColorsColors

TexturesTextures

ShapesShapes

Nooks and cranniesNooks and crannies

One of the crew members took this picture of us. 🤠One of the crew members took this picture of us. 🤠

Last look of the glacier before going back to SewardLast look of the glacier before going back to Seward

Exhausted after the tour, perhaps due to extended sun exposure on the deck, we found a nice camp by the Resurrection River just outside of Seward.

A quiet evening to recover from the overwhelming amount of beauty during the dayA quiet evening to recover from the overwhelming amount of beauty during the day

Thursday: Seward

The plan for the day was to drive the only road in Kenai Fjords National Park to Exit Glacier, one of the most accessible glaciers by foot in Alaska. After our first ranger-led program in Denali, we decided to continue our learning with Alaskan park rangers and joined a guided 1.5-mile hike to the overlook of Exit Glacier. Ranger Bill did not disappoint — he pointed out the local flora and fauna along the way, and aside from the knowledge, we were so infatuated by his love for this place that we went back to see the glacier by ourselves again after the guided tour!

We drove a couple minutes from our camp to the Exit Glacier trailhead.We drove a couple minutes from our camp to the Exit Glacier trailhead.

Ranger Bill sharing his knowledge about the parkRanger Bill sharing his knowledge about the park

Stopping at the Exit Glacier viewpoint with Ranger Bill and our groupStopping at the Exit Glacier viewpoint with Ranger Bill and our group

After lunch, we headed for a longer hike to have a closer look at the glacier.After lunch, we headed for a longer hike to have a closer look at the glacier.

We made it!We made it!

Even though we couldn’t touch the glacier, we could still see a lot of details from a distance.Even though we couldn’t touch the glacier, we could still see a lot of details from a distance.

We forgot to take a group photo the night prior, but we met a French couple Remi and Natacha at camp, and shared a few beers and stories together. They just started their adventure from Montréal to Argentina.We forgot to take a group photo the night prior, but we met a French couple Remi and Natacha at camp, and shared a few beers and stories together. They just started their adventure from Montréal to Argentina.

Their website and Instagram if you’d like to follow their adventuresTheir website and Instagram if you’d like to follow their adventures

We headed back to our camp by the Resurrection River for the evening. With our our truck, we were able to cross the river and go a little bit further than other campers.We headed back to our camp by the Resurrection River for the evening. With our our truck, we were able to cross the river and go a little bit further than other campers.

Margo was a little grumpy tonight. We let her off leash earlier but she was up to no good. We had to re-attach her.Margo was a little grumpy tonight. We let her off leash earlier but she was up to no good. We had to re-attach her.

Some pack rafters passed by our campSome pack rafters passed by our camp

And then a helicopter flew in to check out our neighbor…And then a helicopter flew in to check out our neighbor…

Friday: Seward

Our last full day at Seward was marked by an adventure of a lifetime to celebrate Victor’s birthday: a kayaking trip in Bear Glacier Lagoon amongst the icebergs. To get to the kayak launch sites, our options were either by jet boats or by helicopter, and we went with…the latter! 🎂🎁

Arriving at the heliport. We recognized one of the helicopters that came flying above our camp the previous night.Arriving at the heliport. We recognized one of the helicopters that came flying above our camp the previous night.

Flying over the icebergs in the Bear Glacier Lagoon. You can see the ocean in the distance.Flying over the icebergs in the Bear Glacier Lagoon. You can see the ocean in the distance.

Because of global warming, the lagoon is now filled with icebergs. A few years ago, only a handful of icebergs were present during the summer months.Because of global warming, the lagoon is now filled with icebergs. A few years ago, only a handful of icebergs were present during the summer months.

Our helicopter landed on the “beach,” a terminal moraine created by the retreating Bear Glacier that shelters the lagoon from the ocean.Our helicopter landed on the “beach,” a terminal moraine created by the retreating Bear Glacier that shelters the lagoon from the ocean.

What a beautiful day for a paddle! We put on dry suits for the first time.What a beautiful day for a paddle! We put on dry suits for the first time.

Our guide Chloe in the single kayak ahead. Victor’s camera died in the cold temperature so the following ones are iPhone photos.😳Our guide Chloe in the single kayak ahead. Victor’s camera died in the cold temperature so the following ones are iPhone photos.😳

Happy paddlers with Bear Glacier in the background. The glacier was roughly 2 miles from where we were. While it is possible to get closer, the condition was hazardous with the thousands of large icebergs.Happy paddlers with Bear Glacier in the background. The glacier was roughly 2 miles from where we were. While it is possible to get closer, the condition was hazardous with the thousands of large icebergs.

Experience of a lifetime!Experience of a lifetime!

It was hard to capture the experience with mere photos, so we recorded a few video clips during the ride and the paddle. The tour was booked through Liquid Adventures, and it was a 5-star experience.

Saturday: Seward to Cooper Landing (1h / 50 Miles)

We couldn’t have asked for better weather in the last few days, and when the rain clouds moved in Saturday morning, we took it as the sign to finally leave Seward. The bayside town had so much to offer, and we loved our time here! Perhaps we will stop by again on our way back home.

The next destination is Homer, fondly known as the Halibut Fishing Capital of the World,” on the other end of the Kenai Peninsula. Our plan was to find camp not too far from Seward, and when we pulled into the quiet gravel shore of the Kenai Lake, we called it a day.

Last walk in Seward to admire the street artLast walk in Seward to admire the street art

Our lovely camp by Kenai LakeOur lovely camp by Kenai Lake

Sunday: Cooper Landing to Ninilchik via Kenai National Wildlife Refuge (1h30 / 84 Miles)

We had an ambitious plan to wake up at 6am to maximize our chances of seeing wildlife when we would drive through the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge on our way. Yet, in reality, we grudgingly got up at 9am so when we arrived at the Refuge at high noon, the wildlife was nowhere to be seen.😭 We learned our lesson that only early birds get to see wildlife.

In the afternoon, we stocked up on groceries and slowly made our way to Anchor Point, about 30 minutes outside of Homer, where we wrapped up the week.

We went for a short hike in the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge to make up for our loss.We went for a short hike in the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge to make up for our loss.

The visitor center had great exhibits about the Refuge.The visitor center had great exhibits about the Refuge.

Fishermen in Ninilchik taking photos of their fresh halibut catchesFishermen in Ninilchik taking photos of their fresh halibut catches

Camping on a gravel beach where locals come to fish halibut from the shoreCamping on a gravel beach where locals come to fish halibut from the shore

Clear sighting of Lake Clark National Park and Preserve on the other side of the bayClear sighting of Lake Clark National Park and Preserve on the other side of the bay

Just as we were about to publish the post, three bald eagles arrived at the beach looking for fish. So we had to end this week’s report with the thrill. Wish you an eagle-worthy week!


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